Инструкция по эксплуатации, руководство пользователя к подвесным лодочным мотор. подвесной бензиновый мотор. 11,99 MB. Руководства по эксплуатации и ремонту лодочных моторов Evinrude. 3,5 л.с. Evinrude B3R4/E3R4 г. Руководство по эксплуатации на русском языке. Формат: PDF, размер: 11,2 Mb. Скачать. При продаже мотора, инструкция по эксплуатации должна перейти к новому Владельцу. Грамотный, ответственный водитель соблюдает все меры безопасности, что не уменьшает удовольствия от лодочных прогулок.
Первый раз на этом сайте? Sniper Ценный участник форума Сообщений: Alex 1 Если не жалко скинь тел. Помогите найти инструкцию к мотору Evinrude 4 такта 9. И ещё вопрос , можно ли держать 4 тактный двигатель в таком положении на любом боку? Заранее извиняюсь перед теми для кого мои вопросы покажутся глупыми, но я новичок в использовании бензо-мотора Axim Ветеран форума Сообщений: А что хочешь знать из инструкции? Вот некоторые из них На каком боку можно транспортировать? Какое масло должно быть в ноге? И как часто менять Какие использовать свечи зажигания? Надо ли менять ремень грм?
Свечи можно любве те которые подходят. Самый простой способ это прсмотреть на родной свече маркировку и купить аналог. Не уверен что в таком мал моторе есть ремень грм но нужно точно глянуть в нете.
Инструкции к лодочным моторам EVINRUDE
Схемы и номера деталей. Smear some medium grit valve grinding compound on the glass, place the head on this, move the head around applying downward pressure while doing a figure eight with the head to take off any high spots. Lapp the head, applying more compound and the figure eights until the texture of the head has the same wear pattern all over the bearing surface. After it has been run enough to warm the block up, check and re-torque the headbolts. Look at the photos below. Here the motor had been totally rebuilt with new rings about 30 hours before. The motor died and since it had an electric starter, was not noticed any real differences except harder starting. Plugs were changed and it ran for a while. This time when it died, the lower plug had the electrode smashed flat against the center electrode. At the time it was thought that possibly the new plug was defective or that it had been dropped, deforming it. The motor was still running with about 4 more hours on it at the time it was taken out of service, but the bottom plug was fouled considerably. Here is the bent spark plug mentioned above. Compression on this motor at the time it was taken out of service was on the top cylinder and on the bottom. Miraculously, the cylinder wall was not scored badly and only a good honing job was required to clean it up. This was cracked by aluminum piston pieces being sucked behind the piston thru the ports, then got poked out as the rod came around at the base of the cylinder. A clean up and wire-feed welding job remedied this problem. However this hole in the block could have been probably been taken care of with a J-B Weld epoxy repair. Here is evidence of the broken piston pieces being imbedded into the head. If your testing shows low compression, then I would do 2 things, before I would get really dejected. First I would pull the head and look for a blown head gasket or evidence of carbon on the top of the piston. If carbon is there, then you may also have it in the ring grooves binding the rings from doing a full expansion contact with the cylinder walls. This could seize the ring to the piston groove and cause it to not seal in the bore effectively, which can contribute to low compression.
While the head is off, rotate the flywheel, look at the cylinder walls, are they scored or evidence of rust pitting? One thing to do when taking the head off, would be to mark which coil is the top one this will be an invaluable help later. This means when you reinstall the head IF the powerhead is still on the motor, that you will have to insert these 2 bolts in their respective head holes BEFORE you slide the head in place. The next step would be to remove the bypass cover on the LH side of the motor facing forward. With this cover off, you can see into the side of the powerhead, see the sides of parts of the piston and the rings, which will give you another clue as to what may be wrong. Is there any black carbon on the sides of the piston, which would indicate that the rings are indeed stuck allowing a blow-by. Check to see if the rings are stuck in the ring grooves, or is the piston grooves worn enough so that the rings wobble in the groove?
Note rust, especially for the bottom cylinder. This motor had blown head gasket on lower cylinder. Since these motors are 2 cycle, and fire on the rise of the piston each time, it is crucial that the motor has GOOD compression on each stroke. You might therefore compare the compression on the first stroke, then against cranking it over another 3 or 4 times. By the nature of most compression testers, they allow a compounded poundage if cranked repeatedly. If this leakage has been there for a while and blown a hole, it will then need a new head gasket. Be sure you get the right head gasket, as the ones made for the post 92 models do not fit the 92 and older models. I have been communicating with one motor owner who is having lots of smoke coming from his motor when trolling where it uses LOTS of fuel, he says like an old V8 Ford. He has had it to mechanics but no one had narrowed down his problem. They are looking at leaks in his exhaust system for the smoke. His compression is 90 and 95 , the plugs are very oily but he has not had them foul to where the motor dies. My thoughts were that he has frozen rings in the pistons, or rings that have lost much of their tension so he is getting blow by. He later sent me the picture on the right above. Kind of like the Energizer Bunny. When he pulled his thumb off the hole, fire shot out that hole and toasted the end of his thumb! Not bad, but just enough to get his attention. My guess is that his rings are not sealing good enough to not allowing enough vacuum to pull the fuel into the crankcase, possibly a source of the fuel leak also also evidenced by fire coming out the crankcase fuel pump hole also bypassing the rings. Maybe a time to decarb the engine and hope it will loosen the stuck rings, other than that, a re-ring job. A slightly defective head gasket can cause engine heating at high speed and cooling off at low speeds. A time can come when no matter what you go, the motor just is getting tired and will need to be torn down and the rings replaced on the piston. OK, we have covered the main items to look at. If the flywheel was not really tight when the key may get sheared off, it is possible that the flywheel would rotate without the crankshaft moving. If this happens then it is also possible that the manual or even electric starter spin but would not rotate the crankshaft because it was simply spinning the flywheel on the shaft.
You may see different opinions as to how the key needs to be inserted into the flywheel cut. Probably it really makes no significant difference on a used key, but for a new key there may be some benefits. I have found a illustration in a newer OMC service manual that shows the key inserted with the punch mark down, as shown in the photos below. There is another diamond or triangle depending on manufacture date punch mark in the mid center. I suspect this is their way of trying to compensate for any wear in the flywheel slot and are forcing the flywheel and crankshaft to be tighter if used in a motor that has a worn slots and a new key. There was never any marks on the old keys. I guess this is why the new engineers are paid a higher wage. In this manual they stress that the outside of the key be parallel to the center of the shaft. I ran into one motor, a that repeatedly sheared flywheel keys. After 3 of these, I finally wised up somewhat and did some investigating. This motor did not have the original powerhead, so the flywheel tapered hole was not an exact mate to the crankshaft taper. What was happening was that with mismatching parts, the flywheel slightly smaller upper size was hitting the top edge of the crankshaft taper, not allowing this different flywheel to be tightened down enough by just tightening the nut. A large round chainsaw file was used to remove this ridge in the upper flywheel tapered hole, then in assembly the flywheel was hammered down with a brass mallet, then the nut was tightened. If you have access to a large metal lathe, you could mount the flywheel in the chuck and remove a slight amount of metal on the underside where it was rubbing, OR find a used flywheel of the same vintage. However in the service manual the key is supposed to be parallel WITH the taper of the shaft. The OMC and newer 2 cycle, plus all the 4 cycle motors use a different wider key, part Note the 2 punch marks on the side of this new flywheel key. Illustration out of an OMC manual. Any time you remove the flywheel, and lay it upside down on your workbench. I had this happen one time after a rebuild and the flywheel drug on the timing plate badly. What had happened was that this motor had sheared a flywheel key and the thin outer part had been held in a inconspiculess location by one of the magnets. This may not be as critical as the others, but worthwhile to check, since it is not in open view, it can slide by un-noticed. This cam plate setting should not normally have to be reset unless someone has tinkered with the motor, they unknowingly may have changed this setting. If the twist grip is not rotated to a fast advanced enough position, you will have to crank all day on a cold motor, however if you advance the grip to a FAST position, it will start readily. You may have to quickly readjust the throttle to a more medium speed once it gets to running.
The throttle cam plate operates a cam roller that is attached to the carburetor. If this cam roller is cracked, broken or not functioning, it will throw the timing off. The throttle cam plate also rotates under the flywheel when you twist the twist grip. This cam plate has an arrow type mark on the front of it. This mark needs to be timed so that when you advance the throttle twist grip, that the carburetor roller is at this mark when the carburetor throttle shaft just starts to turn open. To adjust this on the earlier motors, you need the flywheel off, loosen the 2 bolts on the RH side of the plate, adjust the cam plate to where it just aligns with the roller. Twist the throttle until you see this wire pointer just move. The cam plate arrow should now be lined up. If not, loosen the 2 screws on the side, rotate the plate cam until it is aligned and retighten the screws. Some mechanics like to set them so that the throttle arm JUST opens up a bit when this full neutral throttle is applied, I am inclined to agree. On the later OMC motors the adjustment is different, about or so the timing cam plate that the carburetor roller engages is made of plastic with an adjustment screw on the rear LH side for fine tuning. The nature of this is that it is attached to the plate by a minimal amount of plastic on the front so the screw on the rear will allow it to move in or out for adjustment. If someone does not understand or they are poking around under the front of the flywheel they can break this plastic adjustment tail off. It is usually hard to twist the speed control grip back to slow because the carburetor cam has now dropped behind this sharp broken off part. In the photo below the red arrow shows there this cam part is broken. Normally the broken part will not be found so the owner does not know what is wrong or missing. With the twist grip at about an idle position as shown, you will see the black plastic carburetor cam roller against the cam and under the RH edge of the arrow. I am not sure whether super glue will adhere to that plastic or not. Price of a new on is not that bad however. It attaches by 2 short round protrusions that slide into mating round holes located in between the timing plate and the timing plate base. When the plate and the base are screwed together the cam is held in place. This can be an item that may be overlooked, but it can be critical. It rotates when you twist the throttle twist grip.
This will cause the throttle timing to possibly change enough to create a non-starting motor. This support bearing puts tension on the inside of the timing plate dia. What usually happens is that someone oils everything up with this being one that gets a shot. You may be able to clean it up, then warm it in a micro wave, expand the ends to make it a larger dia. It is has a groove around in the inside to fit over the plate, split in the middle like a set of piston ring to allow installation. If it is collapsed, meaning it has both ends almost together, it will not be able to put enough pressure on the timing plate. You may be able to put it in a micro-wave for a few seconds to soften it up, allowing you to spread it back out and be reusable. When installed it acts as a bushing exerting circular friction between upper plate and the block. The thickness up and down is not where the tension is put between the two but the outer circumference pressure.
Evinrude Подвесной Лодочный Мотор инструкции по эксплуатации и форумы
The outer edges of this plate 46 accepts 47 bearing. This bearing is made larger in diameter and has angled ends to be compressed and ride inside the 39 "timing plate and sleeve" unit that the stator is attached to. However it will not just slide on. You will have to make a simple small wire staple that will hold the 2 ends in place while you slide 39 down over this 47 bearing. The best I have found is to place the bearing so the joint is pointing straight to the rear. Slide the timing plate assembly down, usually the staple will fall out, if not you can reach in with an ice pick, dislodge it from the bearing. Now it will fall on top of the block, so you can retrieve it with a small magnet. The red arrow in the photo below is pointing to the staple. The other bearing shown below is the position the normal bearing is extended. One is brown while the other is black, no real difference, but the brown one was a replacement, rectifying the black ones inability to stay expanded over time. Shown below is 46 support plate with 47 bearing installed before assembly. It would be common however on the older cog gear throttle shaft linkage for wear to set in and there can be considerable slop in the twist grip settings. If this is so, never go from slow to fast to set it for starting, but from fast to slow. This can then position the timing a little faster and possibly set the carburetor at a slightly advanced position, giving a richer fuel mixture for the start situation. Again for the early motors up to , if the twist grip throttle handle steering grip assembly has developed enough slack that it is hard to find your position except if you move it from one way all the time. Or the engagement gears on the control gear and bushing assembly 65 and the vertical shaft allow the gear teeth to jump out of mesh to where you may not be able to rotate the twist grip, you may need to make some shim spacers. These shims can be made from the plastic of the sides of milk jugs, margarine tubs or other plastic bottles. There is one screw 62 on the underside of the twist handle that allows you to take the handle off.
Be careful when reassembling the handle as there is a internal thrust spacer between the spring and the handle that has 2 protruding lugs that have to align with notches on the main arm. You may need to twist things until the lugs engage, then after they are, you may again need to twist the handle so that the screw in the shaft align with the hole in the handle. Be very careful that everything is square, properly positioned when you try to start the screw, as the shaft is aluminum and the screw is stainless. If it starts but goes in cross-threaded, it will just get tighter, to the point that it will not go all the way in. This can be a problem later, as the screw may not be able to be removed without breaking the plastic handle. If it does cross-thread, it may be wise to get a tap, clean up the threads in the shaft. If you need to do any work on the gears, you will need to remove the large snap ring 67 in the illustration above. To do this you need to use snap ring pliers, which can be a bear because of the limited area. Once the snap ring is off the gear and shaft can be withdrawn from the front IF you tip the handle all the way up. Look at the ends of the shaft as you withdraw it, as it has to go back the same way described below. This can be performed without tearing any major parts of the motor apart. I have used plastic off margarine tubs, made a washer that can be put on the geared shaft so it fits forward of 66 and against the housing. This shaft and gear are spring loaded inside the twist grip so when shimming here it pushes 66 tighter into 65 gear. The newer parts have both bronze teeth as compared to sintered steel, nylon or aluminum for the older units. The pivot nut 83 shown in the pictures in the 7 section below is really only a jam nut locking the bolt it is threaded onto from rotating in the arm itself when the handle is raised or lowered. This bolt head is buried under the front bracket, which is threaded into the side of this bracket. To get to it you need to go under and in the channel behind the front plate bar. If the handle is just loose, to tighten it, you need to loosen this 83 nut, then tighten the bolt to the desired tension, then retighten the nut against the outside of the tiller arm. If you tip it up farther and twist the throttle, you can experience these teeth to jump out of mesh 1 or 2 gear teeth without knowing what you just did. It will not rev up to maximum speed as this flat will not allow complete shaft throttle movement.
Лодочный водомет ямаха
Карта с местами ловли щуки
Секреты наживки на карася
Лодочный мотор джонсон 30 тех характеристики
There is a rubber cover on the top that does not allow you to see what has just happened. These gears at the handle pivot have one large flat on each, about the spacing of 2 gear teeth which have to mate, acting as a timing situation and main thrust function. When timed right these 2 wide gears should mate together in a position mostly in the upper position. Farther inside is a vertical bevel gear that sits in the lower cowling is held in position by a separate plastic shaft These 2 bevel gears have a dot on one with a groove on the other, which need to be aligned. In reassembling the intermediate shaft 53 , to the gears, there are timing marks on all mating parts. The shaft has square ends, mating with square holes in the gears. These lumps mate into matching small notches in the square holes in the gears. If your twist grip has a lot of slop in it, meaning it rotates considerably before the timing plate moves the snap ring 67 may have popped out of the groove in gear The photo below shows this snap ring in location. Snap ring 65 in the shaft groove for a 9. If you have slack between the handle itself and the linkage for the throttle plate, then you can shim this shim will need a LARGE hole in the center the bevel gear 52 on the end of the intermediate shaft and the housing, pushing it rearward into a better mesh with the other bevel gear As mentioned previously these shims can be made from old milk jugs or tops of discarded margarine tubs. The and 52 gears are bevel gears mating into each other, it is easier to shim under the other bevel gear raising it for a better mesh with 52 gear. Shimming UNDER the gear is easier because this can be done without disassembling the front shafts and tiller handle. You can make a plastic shim the size of the gear, again out of a plastic milk jug or margarine tub that has a center hole that the bevel gear shaft will go thru. This should force the gear higher, meshing tighter with 52 gear because they are beveled and eliminate some of your slack. These last two jobs will have to be performed after the manual starter, vertical control shaft and vertical control shaft gear are removed. With the scarcity and expense of these old parts, it seems best to just remark the tiller handle base with a felt marking pen. If you run into a situation where the twist grip is HARD to turn, there are a few things to look at. To check this out disconnect the timing plate linkage at the washer and cotter pin.
Now try the twist grip rotation again. This should help you isolate the problem somewhat. Check the twist grip to see that it has not jumped a tooth at the pivot point where the handle lifts up. If this is the case, your throttle indicator for START will not be in the right location relationship to the carburetor and the timing plate cam. This could cause the motor to not want to start when the throttle indicator is in the START position. This is explained in a subsequent section. You can check this by raising the handle, looking from the front at the mesh of the teeth on the 2 gears. One has a WIDE tooth that has to mesh with the other gear that is missing a tooth. If these teeth get out of mesh, about the easiest way to re-position them is to tip the handle as far rearward as possible, use a medium sized screwdriver, position the twist grip so it is aligned as best you can get it, then insert the screwdriver between the teeth, pry one tooth past the other and hope you do not break one off. The other method is to pull the twist grip off, tip the lever rearward, slide the shaft forward, realign the teeth and reinstall the retainer screw in the twist grip. The nut seen here is the 83 nut mentioned in the 6 section above. Gears out of mesh. Occasionally on the 86 and newer motors you may encounter one of the throttle cable systems that the twist grip will not stay where you put it. The motor will usually slowly slow the speed down by itself if you let go of the twist grip throttle. A solution shown in the earlier section for this was passed on by a retired marine mechanic. His solution was to take a electricians 4 or 6 copper grounding split bolt clamp, simply clamp it around the throttle cable in an out of the way place. There is enough room on these models to place it on the cable beside the carburetor. Tighten the nut enough to just squeeze the cable inside the plastic sheath. Works like a charm. You might laugh at this question, but if it runs and has no power, or dies at an idle, is it running on both cylinders? It will usually also be a harder to start when cold. I have even trolled all day long on just one cylinder firing. Here was a situation that after traveling for an hour to get to the bay, I had no high speed power, simply would not rev up. I knew there was a problem, but I did not want to take the time setting in the water at the launch to trouble shoot it, and trolling with my 70 hp jet would be about impossible.
I ran that 9. The tried and true method of checking whether it is running on one cylinder is while it is running at a low or medium speed, pull one spark plug wire off, replace it, then pull the other.
If it is running on just one cylinder it will die when you pull off the spark plug wire that is firing. If it is only running on one cylinder, there could be many possibilities, and I would look at them in the simplest order first 1 bad or fouled spark plug. You will also have to swap the power in wires from under the flywheel, the depending on the year some are connected thru a rubber connector, which you can pull the pins and interchange them. This interlock is operated by the shifting lever. The lever places the timing plate interlock so the throttle can not be placed in any speed faster than "START". You can pull the starter rope handle right off the end or break the rope, if you jerk the rope hard enough, are not suspecting that the thing is locked in the safety position. It is supposed to be set so that the motor will start in either forward, neutral or reverse but only run at a restricted speed. If it is moved to forward, then maximum speed can be achieved. On the early motors, for sure, this interlock does not exist. Some fishermen may disconnect or modify the above safety features if they use the motor for a back-up or emergency motor where every second may count. For the electric start models there is another but hidden push button type switch that is connected in line so that the shifting lever has to be in neutral for the starter button to activate the starter itself. On this , with the shift lever placed in forward, the metal Neutral Safety lever timing plate stop has dropped down, allowing the timing plate to over-ride the stop by minimal clearance giving full throttle movement. This timing plate is rotated by linkage to the twist grip throttle handle. If they are not seating properly, this could contribute to hard starting, BUT it would be one of the last things I would look at if the motor has not been recently worked on. If you suspect a problem with them, pull the air breather box off. Rather hard to detect however if it is bent or slightly misaligned. Possibly low on power for one. In the picture below, apparently someone took it apart, reinstalled the reed valves off set to one side on the bottom, leaving a gap as seen at the bottom arrow, creating a leakage for one set of valves. The upper one has what appears to be salt corrosion under the reed and the plate. These valves have to seat on the plate, a good solid surface , no gaps, or corrosion. The thicker U shaped parts that have the screws thru them are the reed valve stops, so that the thin valves do not get deformed by being pulled inward beyond their limits.
There appears to be some evidence of rust, possibly salt corrosion here. Neglected or possibly a dunked motor. One thing here, you will never be able to salvage the gaskets on either side of this valve plate as seen in the photo, so you will need new gaskets, one against the block and the other on the manifold side. Occasionally the possibility exists that a reed valve will break, when this happens the motor will not run very well, you should be able to hear a sucking noise from the carburetor at low speed it it will run that slow. Also when rebuilding a motor, you may find that one reed valve may not lay flat to the plate. If this is the case look at the plate for straightness. If the gaskets were stuck tight, you had to hammer or pry this plate off the block, you may have bent it. If so simply lay it on a flat plate, using a hammer apply a slight amount of force in the proper location. Once it is bolted back down, it will usually then conform. This has not happened to me but was posted on one of the message boards. The motor was hard to restart when warm. Руководство охватывает все Johnson Evinrude подвесных лодочных моторов л. Johnson Outboard Repair Manual л. Документация по ремонту, обслуживанию, справочная информация для подвесных лодочных моторов Johnson и Evinrude Johnson Outboard Repair Manual л. Johnson 2-Stroke Service Manual 9,9, 15, 25, 30л. Evinrude Outboard Service Manuals 1,л. Evinrude Outboard Service Manuals л. Первое ТО у диллеров после чего отказался по ряду причин разъё. По окончании сезона поменял что нужно законсервировал всё ОК. В сезоне проблем нет как часики. Прочитал тему про ремень ГРМ дай думаю посмотрю и опа , а ролика натяжителя вообще нет. Во всех мануалах отдог. Место под установку есть. Что делать также ездить или заказывать?